Paradiso

Paradiso opened on Lancaster Quay in 1993 and has spent three decades making the case that vegetarian cooking is a cuisine rather than a concession. Denis Cotter and Ger O’Toole still run it. The menu is built on what local growers bring in that week, so it changes constantly, and four cookbooks have come out of the kitchen.

Dinner is six courses at €68 a head. A vegan version of the whole menu is always available, and they can work around gluten if you say so when booking. Open 5pm to 10pm, Tuesday to Saturday. Book ahead; it is small and it fills.